Lake St Clair/ Cradle Mountain National Park 14th - 17th January

Platypus Bay - Lake St Clair

Arrived at beautiful Lake St Clair located at the southern end of the world famous Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park and is part of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. Carved out by ice during several glaciations over the last two million years, this is the deepest lake in Australia (167m) and the headwaters of the Derwent River.

We set up camp in a nice spot near the lake, did some washing and had our first hot showers for several days :)  and prepared ourselves for the Mt Rufus circuit (17 .6km circuit with a 7 km climb)

View West from Mt Rufous

We wake to a beautiful day pack and set off for Mt Rufus.  As the altitude increases, vegetation changes from eucalypt forest to patches of cool temperate rainforest  in the gullies. As you climb higher, the vegetation changes again to sub-alpine forest, dominated by snow gums and stunted rainforest. Towards the summit, alpine plant communities dominate providing a colourful display of fragrant flowers.

Above Right: The view west from the summit.  Lake Undine is in the foreground with Australia Tarn high to the left under the summit of Mt Gell.  The wedge shaped peak above the tarn on the horizon is Frenchman's Cap

The views from the top are breath taking and extensive. In fact, according to the parks map, the ridge you walk up to the top of Mt Rufus is the boundary of the Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair National Park, and the Wild Rivers National Park. Just below the summit is an area of wind and rain sculptured sandstone around 300 million years old and once formed a continuous layer across most of Tasmania. About 165 million years ago magma intruded up through the sandstone to form dolerite, which covered the sandstone layer. Both layers have been eroded over time by wind, rain, snow and glacial action (see left).

Scoparia as far as you can see

Below the saddle between Mt Rufus and Mt Hugel the track winds through Richea Valley, named for the pandani and scoparia plants that grow here. It's like walking into a life size 'Monet' landscape framed by crags and cliffs absolutely breath-taking (see right and below)

and again...

Pandani

Cushion plants

Just couldn't help myself with the camera - I think I drive Rob mad - he's so patient!!  But I think he is relieved when my battery finally dies as we wind our way down through the Pandani and lush Cushion Plants and back to our camp, blown away by the beauty of the day!

A very playful Spotted Quoll

Just to top it off Rob cooks a roast chicken and vege camp oven, we share a rare bottle of wine and have a surprise visit from a cheeky spotted quoll who flit between our legs and played around our camp site.

I know there in there somewhere!

Next day we decided to do a couple of shorter walks and enjoy the abundant wildlife.  We head for platypus bay , saw a couple "canoodling" on the shore.  The tourists weren't impressed!!  We pass the 'Watersmeet' where the Hugel and Cuvier rivers join and flow into Lake St Clair.

Watersmeet

We enjoyed ‘Larmairremener tabelti’ Aboriginal cultural walk.This walk contained a wide variety of vegetation, including banksias, buttongrass, tea-tree thickets, Tasmanian waratahs, rainforest ferns, and towering eucalypt stags.

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Buttongrass

Tea-tree flowers

Banksia

The long twilights here allow allowed for a rest before setting off to the old power station along the sandy banks of Lake St Clair again some beautiful scenery - my favourite being the gnarled old snow gums contrasting with the delicate  and trigger plant flowers. Just loved this Park!!!

Banks of Lake St Clair

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Snow Gum on the banks of Lake St Clair

Banks of Lake St Clair

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Narrow leaf trigger plant

Old Pump house

Mighty Gums

Junee Caves & Southwest National Park 11th -13th January

Junee Caves walk

Anne's Cake/pudding

We decided to head for Southwest National Park but stumbled on Junee Caves Conservation Area just out of Madena and decided to stop here near a beautiful stream with trout etc, hardly anyone about.  Did a night walk up to the glow worms and cave entrance. Rain set in so we decided to bunker down, do some cooking, reading and chill out for a bit.  Rob still manages to get a fire going and makes a little roof over his fireplace to keep the rain out - despite wet wood we still have a fire....

Heading South West

Moved on today, headed for Gordon Dam and Lake Pedder in South West National Park, but 20th century mining and large-scale hydro electric dams have left there mark and with bleak and barren country though the mountains are spectacular.  Gordon Dam is quite a big project, an "eggshell" type dam forming Lake Pedder, 24 times the size of the original Lake.

Gordon Dam

Dwarfed on all sides by a ghostly drowned landscape, you can only imagine the contrast that must once have been created by the broad pink beach  of the original Lake Pedder. Pedder was the subject of one of the most controversial failed conservation fights in history, the new lake Pedder flooded the very beautiful 'old' Lake Pedder.  The equivalent of flooding Wineglass Bay. The fight of concerned citizens led to the birth of the world's first Green Party, the United Tasmania Group (UTG). 

Lake Pedder or Dead Tree Lake??

Despite the beauty of the area and Gordon Dam's engineering feat, we found it very depressing looking over an area that holds 27 times more water than Sydney Harbour, full of flooded trees. So we decided to move on towards Lake St Clair/Cradle Mountain National park visiting a few short walks along the way.  A favourite was the Creepy Crawley a lovely section of cool temperate rainforest. The boarded track gently weaves its way around moss-covered trees and over giant logs.

Creepy Crawley walk

Traveled up to Hamilton, a historic village settled by Scottish farmers, you can still find the cottages and grand old farm houses once inhabited by the early farmers. Hamilton was developed as a transport hub and by the 1830s was operating a number of breweries and a roaring illegal spirits trade. A very pretty town with a great little camp spot.

The old gaol - Hamilton

Mount Field National Park

Woke up to a beautiful morning and set off for Mount Field National Park. A magic spot with lots of Alpine walks.  Nice visitors centre and magnificent "Tall Trees" walk.  These giant snow gums are awe-inspiring, the tallest flowering trees in the world (only the Californian Redwoods are taller).  Nice camp site - enjoyed our first night back on the road, beautiful birds and very friendly pademelons.

Pademelon

We set off for our first serious walk for a few weeks Mt Field West (Alpine walk) and decided to add the Tarn Shelf circuit  taking in Lake Newdegate, Twilight Tarn and Lake Webster. Very challenging in sections particularly the clambering over

Lake Newdegate

boulders through the Lions Den and up to K Cole, but we got the best possible day for it!  The total walk was around 9 hours.  One of the more difficult walks we have done but the scenery (views, flowers etc) was absolutely spectacular.

Scoparia

Mountain Pink Berry

Mt Field West

Scoparia (I think)?

Anne managed to complete the walk despite the sole of my boot starting to come apart.  Had a yummy chicken dinner when we got back!  Our camel packs were terrific no more carrying water bottles!!

Russell Falls

Fell into bed exhausted!  Next day we decided for a second walk around the Tall Trees (some reaching 90mtrs) and on to Russell Falls in Mount Field.  These are one of the most beautiful and picturesque falls we've seen - it's a very special place, a timely reminder of the whole cycle of growth, decay and regeneration.

Waratah

Decay and growth

Russell Falls Walk

Tall Trees Walk

Massive Manferns everywhere

Fungi

Hobart & Surrounds 20th December - 8th Jan 2011

Seven Mile Beach

Arrived in Devonport on the 20th and headed for Seven Mile Beach on the outskirts of Hobart to house-sit for my niece and her husband (Kristyn and Tim) for a few weeks.  First impression of Tasmania is very positive - a lot like New Zealand.

We cleaned up a house that Tim had just finished building - the house was amazing, overlooking beaches at Marion Bay with some resident wedge-tail eagles keeping an eye on things.  The house was designed for a Danish Guy - very picturesque but would be Hell on wheels when the weather comes in.

Christmas Day was a quiet one but nice - spoke with family on the phone - enjoyed preparing our Thai green mango fish salad and enjoyed eating it even more.  Opened our new hiking packs that we ordered on the net complete with hydration bags - very pleased with them.

 
We did Kristyn and Tim's markets at Salamanca while they were away  (Boxing day and New Years day) - very busy but fun.  The crowds were pretty big so Rob got his busking licence and did pretty well.  I was pretty impressed with his takings for a couple of hours work - and was all for him singing for his supper more often....

Hobart was bustling with the Sydney to Hobart, Falls Festival and the Taste of Tasmania bringing tens of thousands of visitors to the city.  It was fun working for Sam and Ally selling Gillespie's Ginger Beer at the Tassie Taste  - Loved the drink and had fun sampling all the yummy food and wine on offer (32,000 people came through on the first night)!

New Year's- Hobart

Caught up with friends Anne and Susan and had a lovely meal at Maldini's Italian restaurant at Salamanca very nice :) Shared some lovely meals with Gaye and Peter (Tim's parents) and caught up with Amy's partner's folks in Howrah.

Overall really enjoyed our "domestic" stint in Hobart, although the weather was generally pretty ordinary (in fact frrrreezing some days!)  Got the car serviced, earned some $'s and enjoyed exploring Hobart and surrounds. 
Below are some of our favourite pics from our time in Hobart.

Seven Mile Beach

Kaia and Tim

Bream Creek Winery

Jasper get's a bath

Tilly & Anne

Rob testing his camel pack

Crowds at Salamanca

Melbourne 15th - 19th December

HAPPY BIRTHDAY BEN - Hope its a good year for you!

Nick and Rob

Found our way to Nick's in Collingwood after a yummy lunch with Elaine, Geoff and Ilyas (ex RAR) on the way in.

Anne Ilona, Rob and Drew

Had a few nights "dining out", got to know the neighbourhood of Collingwood and the City.  Melbourne is pretty easy to get around (good transport).
We also got to have breakfast with our friend Grace and caught up Ilona and Drew (Rob used to play in a band with Ilona) - had a lovely time with them.

City Square

 We enjoyed exploring the city and had a good look around the National Art Gallery - particularly enjoyed "Unnerved" The New Zealand Project - some very thought provoking works. Explored the music shops and to Robs delight finally found the Leonard Cohen song/chord book he had been wanting for some time.

China Town

We became addicted to "Arrested Development", a pretty wacky TV Show and just enjoyed lazing around Nick's place.  Collingwood is one of those neighbourhoods "in transition" - still some of the old tenants, businesses etc but slowly turning into a "trendy" location, restaurants, cafes and expensive "fashionable" clothes.

Boarding the Spirit of Tasmania

Left on Sunday night (9pm) for the  Spirit of Tasmania ferry, which was a real buzz had a very nice night crossing the Bass Strait arriving in Devonport after a comfy nights sleep in our sleeper.